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True To His Origin - Suryadi

Suryadi is from Kuta, Lombok. He has lived and learned, trained and worked locally, and enjoys local foods and traditional cooking. It’s quite poetic that he is now back in Kuta, as executive chef at Origin Lombok, a name he could almost wear as his own badge of distinction.

He spoke with My Lombok about his career in food.

What is the one dish you love and remember from your Mother’s kitchen?

The dish I still remember clearly is kelak pedis panas, which is a traditional dish usually made from grains and vegetables, such as fern plant, peanuts, and beans, mixed with chili sauce and fruit, then boiled together using certain spices. In the Sasak language pedis means sour or acidic, and panas means spicy.

When did you first become interested in food?

I didn’t have a definite plan to become a chef, but when I was in High school, and just starting SMK, there were only 3 majors to choose from: UPW (Usaha Jasa Wisata) to learn Tourist Services; AP (Akomodasi Perhotelan), which was Hotel Accommodation; and Jasa Boga, which was Catering Services. At the time, the Catering Services department wasn’t really very popular, and it had mainly women students, but that’s the one I chose.

My friends, who were studying other majors, often referred to me as the one who smelled like onion or paste. But I didn’t let that stop me from studying in the culinary field. I was happy and confident doing it. I also came to realise that studying to be a chef would be a good career choice for my future.

How did your family react when you told them you wanted to become a chef?

My parents are village people. They didn’t really know much about the profession of a chef or about the culinary world. But they always supported me going to school, as long as it was a good school. They’ve always given me freedom – in all the things I wanted to do.

Tell us about your career so far.

I started my training at Novotel Lombok & Taman Restaurant, in Senggigi.

After graduating from school I went to Gili Trawangan, as cook at the Trawangan Dive. Then I moved to the Senggigi Beach Hotel. In October 2002 there was the bombing in Bali, which meant that tourism was very quiet for a while, so I took a break for a year. I returned to Gili Trawangan in 2004, to Dream Divers, then to Villa Almarik, Qunci Villas, Marina, Square, and Novotel Kuta. I was part of the opening team at Tugu Hotel, at Sire, then returned to Gili Trawangan and worked at The Beach House, Kokomo, Natya Hotel, then at the Sapori Restaurant in Kuta, and now at Origin Lombok.

What is the concept for your menu at Origin Lombok?

The owner came up with the concept for the menu. It’s basically a ‘simple but elegant’ menu. The idea is to make dishes that are not too complicated, with an easy preparation and cooking process.

What seems to be the favourite dish among your guests?

They really love Ayam Taliwang – our spicy grilled chicken dish – and the Beef Rendang and Nasi Goreng from our local menu. Pizza is the favourite choice from our western menu.

What’s your particular style of cooking?

I like to cook both Indonesian and Western cuisines.

Do you have favourite ingredients to cook with?

For me, it would be seafood. There are so many different combinations of dishes you can make using seafood. And in Lombok it’s very easy to get beautiful fresh seafood.

What are your favourite kitchen gadgets?

I’d say my pan and spatula. You can use the pan to cook in so many different ways – for example, pan frying, searing and roasting.

How would a typical day at work look?

I arrive at work at 9am. I check the breakfast service, and then start preparations for lunch and dinner, and for the special menu we offer.  Then I do stock checks, and make sure we have all the ingredients we need. At 4pm I take a break and return to work at 6pm. Then it’s time to prepare the kitchen for dinner. I go home around 10pm, depending on how busy the hotel is.

What is the biggest challenge in your job?

All work places have challenges, for sure. For most people, it depends on the location or their work colleagues. At Origin Lombok the biggest challenge is location. Because Origin is located outside central Kuta, it’s sometimes difficult to attract guests who are not staying the hotel to have dinner here.

What do you like to eat when you’re at home? And do you do the cooking?

When I’m home I like to eat local food from my village – things like vegetables.  And no, I don’t cook at home. My wife does the cooking; at home I am definitely the food taster (and eater)!

If you hadn’t become a chef, what would you be doing right now?

I think I would probably be a farmer like my parents. Perhaps my first choice would have been tobacco, and then rice.

What do you like to do in your spare time?

When I have time off I like to spend it with my family. I like to go around with my children, and take them to different places, like the beach or the mall. For me a day off is ‘family time’.

As well as creating great food, what would you say are the most important qualities that make a successful chef?

I think a good chef needs to be able to control food costs and create new menus.

There are also three things that a good chef needs to be able to control in the kitchen: Preparation; Operation (cooking); and Closing.

If these three things are good and in control the rest of the kitchen will run smoothly.

Who is your favourite celebrity chef?

In Lombok there are many good chefs I have learned from. Some of them are Chef Salihin, Chef Lalu Nasir, Chef Jiwa and Chef Barkun.  I have especially learned a lot from Chef Barkun – he has supported me through my career and in my personal life.

Do you have any tips for budding chefs?

You must always be willing to learn and be up-to-date with what is happening in the culinary world. The sky is the limit and there is always something new to learn.

You must always stay focused. If you focus in the right direction you will succeed; it’s impossible to get anywhere if you don’t even know which direction you’re going in.