Rhubarb might have been off the menu for a while but it seems like it’s back in a big way. In restaurants, cookbooks and food blogs, rhubarb is all the rage. 

Rhubarb is the name given to several edible species of vegetable in the Rheum genus. There are dozens of varieties, or cultivars, that have been developed for human consumption.

It’s an herbaceous plant that grows easily in temperate climates, as a perennial, and can survive for 20 years in the same spot. It also thrives, as an annual, in much warmer conditions, provided it has plenty of water. And, although snails can be a problem, rhubarb tends to resist most pests, so there’s no need for pesticides.

Rhubarb can grow 2-3 feet (up to 1 metre) high. The stalks, or stems, are easy to recognise by their bright pink colour and prominent red veins. In some varieties, they are reddish-green or even pale green. The stems are the only edible part of the plant.

Also distinctive are the large, green, heart-shaped leaves. They contain oxalic acid and are highly toxic to human beings. Five kilograms of the leaves represent a lethal dose but you can get quite sick on a lot less. 

A little history

The word ‘rhubarb’ comes from two Greek words: rheon (rhubarb) and barbaron (foreign) so it was ‘foreign rhubarb’, a plant they believed came from the middle east. In fact, until the 17^th century, it was mostly used, in powdered form, as a medicine, and traders guarded the secret of its origins. 

It was used to treat almost everything from cholera and constipation, to rickets and rheumatism. After it arrived in North America, pregnant women, especially, ‘raved about rhubarb’ and a rhubarb ‘black market’ operated. Rhubarb powder was often mixed in wine or ale and used as a health tonic – even for newborns and children. 

When the edible plant was first discovered and developed, people naturally found it too tart. The encouragement to sweeten it made rhubarb very popular and made a fortune for sugar traders. Rhubarb became the ‘superfood’ of the early 1800s, especially among the British, who made it into pies, tarts and wine, and found ways to grow it all year round. 

Cooking with rhubarb

Today there are many varieties, found in most countries around the world. Stewed rhubarb and custard and rhubarb pie or rhubarb crumble, served with fresh cream, are standard favourites but there’s no need to limit yourself. There are new and even better ways to appreciate this versatile food.

Chefs particularly like the acidity of rhubarb. It can be sweetened for dessert dishes and makes a great base for sauces and accompaniments to savoury recipes. 

And, best of all, it’s really easy to cook.

As sweet as ...

Chefs and home cooks are getting creative with rhubarb desserts. Why not try out some of these?

Two ways to cook rhubarb

Rhubarb compote 

This is basically rhubarb boiled with sugar and its own juices. Just wash the stalks, chop them into 1-2cm pieces, stir in sugar (1 part sugar to 5 parts rhubarb), then cover and leave in the fridge overnight. Cook over medium heat – stirring occasionally – until the rhubarb has broken down and the syrup has reduced by about half.

Roasted rhubarb

Bring to the boil 300 ml of water, 300 gm of caster sugar and 3 whole vanilla beans. Reduce to a syrup. Wash 500 gm of rhubarb stalks, cut into 3 cm pieces and place them in a roasting pan. Cover with the syrup and bake at 200°C for 10-15 minutes.

Serving suggestion:  Pack a small pudding mould or ramekin with black rice pudding. Invert it onto a serving plate and top with rhubarb (cooked either way). Drizzle a little coconut cream over the two for a delicious dessert.

This suggestion also works well with any of your favourite puddings.

When you’ve cooked and sweetened rhubarb, there are plenty of other ways to use it:

• Deconstructed rhubarb tart
• Rhubarb jam
• Rhubarb smoothie 
• Rhubarb muffins or plain cakes
• Rhubarb topping for ice cream.

A savoury addition

You’ll find these rhubarb recipes will enhance your non-dessert courses: 

Rhubarb sauce 

Sauté ½ onion (chopped finely) on medium heat until browned. Add 2 stalks of rhubarb (chopped), season with salt and pepper and cook until rhubarb is soft. Deglaze the pan with a dash of white wine (optional) balsamic vinegar and lemon juice. Remove from heat and stir in a little olive oil.

Rhubarb Chutney
Combine 450 gm rhubarb stems and 1 onion (both chopped finely), 250 ml apple cider vinegar, 200 gm brown sugar, 1 tsp powdered ginger, 1 tsp mustard seed and ½ tsp salt.

Bring to the boil, then simmer (approx. 30 minutes) until rhubarb and onion break down and mixture is reduced by about half. Cool the mixture and use as a condiment. 

Rhubarb glaze 

Experiment by reducing the chutney mixture further and adding honey and smoked paprika; then puree the mixture to make a glaze to use in the last stage of roasting meats.

These recipes go perfectly with all meats, fish and poultry and most root vegetables.

Try these ideas:

• Rhubarb salsa – use rhubarb to add to, or replace, your usual chopped tomatoes
• Rhubarb and lentil curry – rhubarb adds extra zing
• Rhubarb salad – add rhubarb pieces, roasted with coconut flakes
• Rhubarb and honey chicken – the most succulent sweet’n’sour sensation.

Nutritional and health benefits

There are lots of reasons to choose rhubarb for health as well as for taste:

• Rhubarb is low in calories and high in fibre, which promotes a healthy digestive system
• It has useful amounts of vitamins C, calcium, potassium and manganese 
• Rhubarb stalks contain vitamin K for healthy bones and effective blood clotting
• It contains antioxidants (lutein and zeaxanthin), which can protect against certain cancers and chronic diseases
• Rhubarb is useful as a gentle and painless laxative. 

Rhubarb might have been been underrated and under the radar for some time but it’s racing back into restaurants and home kitchens right now.

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