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Crafting A Career In Cuisine

It’s not about ‘using’ food; it’s about creating extraordinary things with food as the ingredients.

Cuisine is craft.

Vittorio Negri was born in Castellammare di Stabia, on the Bay of Naples, in 1978.  He spent the first 20 years of his life in the area, learning and developing his cooking skills. Since then, 25 years of travelling have helped him refine his craft and given him opportunities to explore the world of  food and beverages.

He brings his wealth of expertise and his love of various cuisines to Qunci Villas in Senggigi, where My Lombok spoke with him about his lifelong relationship with food.

Could you tell us when you first become interested in food?

It goes right back to my childhood. I inherited the love for food from my family. Where I come from, we have an intimate relationship with food.  Food is culture and so, for us, it’s all about love and tradition. Families are generally quite close and they are the focal point of life. So is food.

Even though daily life is often such a rush, Italians always find a way to spend quality time together by gathering to eat a meal. At the dinner table, nobody is in a rush.

What is the one dish you love and remember from your childhood?

Not only was my Mum a great cook, but my father was, too, so it’s hard to choose just one.

I would say my mum’s best dish was casatiello, a savoury bread that’s usually prepared at Easter time.  My father was a great fisherman, so he was the one who prepared the seafood dishes. I remember how he wouldn’t allow anyone else to touch them; one of his best dishes was the ragu di murena, which is a fish ragout, or stew, made with Moray eels. It’s something unforgettable.

A dish like that teaches us that many underrated fish can often be tastier than the ones we use regularly. It was my first lesson in sustainability.

Was there any particular moment when you decided you would make cooking your career?

My passion for cooking was obvious from the time I was a child. When I was six years old, while my mum was out buying groceries, I fried some eggs and had them for a snack. She was shocked when she found out.

I would say that by the time I was 18, I understood that my future was definitely in the food and beverage industry.

How did your family react when you told them you wanted to become a chef?

My father was the one who encouraged me; he could see I had a passion for it. My mum was more sceptical. There were a few people in our family who were in the hospitality industry, and she knew how many sacrifices you have to make when that’s the life you choose.

Where did you do your training?

First, I trained in Sorrento, in a 5-star hotel kitchen. Later, I experienced a summer season on the island of Capri and, after that, six months in a pizzeria – and that’s the field to cover if you’re a complete Italian chef. Then I worked a summer season in a famous events venue, mostly cooking for weddings. There I learned a different approach and how to prepare for big occasions.

Tell us about your career and some of the places you have worked

After few years spent in Italy – between Naples and Tuscany – I moved on to London for seven years, where I had experience in a few Italian kitchens and worked my way up to a sous chef position.

In 2008, I moved to the United Arab Emirates and spent three years there. I won a Best Italian Restaurant Award as chef de cuisine. I went to Thailand for a year, had a brief experience in India and then moved to a hotel in Tunisia, as executive sous-chef. From 2012 I was an executive chef in Bali, until I came to Qunci  Villas, where I’ve been Chef and Culinary Director for the past two years.

How would you describe your style of cooking?

For me, everything starts with taste. The tastes of my childhood set my culinary compass and I owe my vocation to them. The search for the right, authentic taste always guides my work. It’s my obsession. That’s what constantly leads me to discover new products and meet the producers – farmers, market gardeners, breeders and fishermen – who dedicate their lives to working the natural environment to get the best out of it.

I believe that the food you make is your masterpiece and you should respect every part of its creation. It’s not about using food; it’s about creating extraordinary things with food as the ingredients. Cuisine is craft.

Tell us about the concept for your menu at Qunci Villas

At Qunci Villas we have three outlets, and each one has its own character. The common goals, though, are sustainability, supporting the local community and delivering the best products with the best value.

Quali Asian Dining focuses on local and oriental cuisine. I this restaurant, I have a section dedicated to Sasak food because I believe Lombok has a lot to offer in terms of food experiences.

At Qerang: Exquisite Seafood, our mission is to deliver an ‘ocean to table’ experience. I would say 90% of our products come from Lombok.

The Nooq Trattoria & Bar is the new kid on the block; it will open its doors in late April. We believe that simple Italian food will make all the guests happy, because of its quality and variety. There’ll be an extensive selection of homemade pasta and some authentic pasta from Gragnano, a town southeast of Naples.

Which dish do you most like to cook?

I think chefs cook best what they mostly love to eat. Neapolitan food is still my speciality and it’s still what I most love to cook. A good Neapolitan ragù or a Genovese sauce … that’s my comfort food and I love to cook it and smell it.

Which dish do you think is the guests’ favourite?

Most of our customers at Qunci Villas are from Europe. They feel comfortable eating nasi goreng, for example, but can be worried by the spices. At Quali we do nasi goreng in many versions, from the basic kampung style to the one with bumbu Bali spice blend and lobster, or kambing. We believe that Indonesia has much more to offer, and it’s our job to educate our guests to explore it more.

I’m particularly happy about our Sasak satay, a dish that compiles all the famous skewers of Lombok, such as beef rembiga, fish tanjung, chicken bulayak, goat satay and satay lilit, where the meat is wrapped around the skewers.

Do you have favourite ingredients you like to cook with?

Yes, tomatoes. I have to say that in the last ten years the quality of tomatoes has improved a lot –especially those from Bedugul, where we can also find many varieties.

Which are your ‘must have’ kitchen gadgets?

Definitely my knives. A good chef is as jealous for his knives as he is for his wife (ha ha)…

Describe a typical day at work for you

A chef’s job is made up of responsibilities and hard work. Early every morning, I check my breakfast team and make sure their preparation is in place and correct before the service, since our breakfast is à la carte.

Then I have a briefing with the heads of other departments; communication between departments is crucial. After that I review the menus, the food that comes in, and the food storage – to make sure that everything’s in place, and to have a clear idea of what needs to be ordered. I check emails for sales enquiries, and look at the food and beverage marketing, the reviews and postings on social media.

After that, I prepare for lunch service, making sure that kitchen cleanliness is perfect. I brief the kitchen teams – morning and afternoon shifts – then place food orders and prepare the dinner service. I also have to plan for events or promotions.

As well as all that, I engage with our customers in every outlet, to check they are enjoying our food and service.

And that, roughly, is the daily routine!

What do you like most about your job?

Deep inside in every chef, there’s a need to make others happy by preparing their meals. I enjoy that. Also, the fact that I can move from a vibing seafood restaurant to the Asian kitchen, hear the sound of the wok and then have my own ‘home-style’ food…. It’s definitely a job that will never bore me.

What is the biggest challenge?

The biggest challenge for a chef will be always consistency. In nature, perfection doesn’t exist but we strive for it all the time in the kitchen. Expecting the maximum from everyone can be disappointing from time to time, but a good leader always leads by example.

What do you like most about living and working in Lombok?

In Lombok, life is not as stressful as it is in Bali; it’s much more relaxed. There’s less traffic and pollution, more green spaces around and it has great beaches. I feel lucky to be working here. I’ve also found a team of proud people that respect others and what they do.

What do you like to do in your spare time?

Well, I don’t have much spare time but, when I can, I love to travel, explore different cultures and discover new foods. I push myself to go to the gym or do one hour of physical activity every day. And, like every good Italian, I love all kinds of arts.

What foods do you really love to eat? Anything you would never eat?

I eat all types of food. I love to eat food made with love. A chef can always feel it, if something is made with love; it’s the most important ingredient. It could be a soto ayam or a simple bruschetta….

Right now, though, I will not eat any insect products.

Are you the cook at home?

No, my wife is; she’s a brilliant cook. It rarely happens that I cook at home; a chef at home is usually looking for simple things.

If you hadn’t become a chef, what do you think you would be doing right now?

That’s hard to say. I’ve never really thought about it, but since there are wine makers in my family,  I might have liked to do that as well!

Other than creating great food, what are the most important qualities that make a successful chef?

You have to have a sense of ownership. You also need to take care of your team, have good communication skills, and be humble and hard working.

Do you have a favourite celebrity chef?

I don’t have one favourite, no, but I can definitely mention some who have inspired me and influenced my career as a chef.

Thomas Keller was one. The French Laundry Cookbook was an inspiring book for me at the beginning of my career. The recipes are real, like those in the 3-star Michelin restaurant in the Napa Valley, and the consistency and the culinary philosophy of Thomas Keller are inspiring for every chef.

Another must-have book is Josh Niland’s The Whole Fish Cookbook. It’s a unique book that expresses all his love for seafood.

Do you have any tips for budding chefs?

Three things I would say to them. Enjoy the journey! Do it with love or don’t do it at all, as it’s way too hard and there are many sacrifices ahead! And don’t believe what you see on the TV shows!

Social media blurb

‘It’s not about 𝘶𝘴𝘪𝘯𝘨 food; it’s about creating extraordinary things with food as the ingredients.

Cuisine is craft’.

This philosophy has clearly guided Vittorio Negri  – Chef and Culinary Director at 𝘘𝘶𝘯𝘤𝘪 𝘝𝘪𝘭𝘭𝘢𝘴as he has built a career in cuisine. 𝘔𝘺 𝘓𝘰𝘮𝘣𝘰𝘬 spoke with him recently about his early influences and the things that have kept his love for food alive.